- - The original note follows - -
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From: williaj4212@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Newsgroups: rec.photo,alt.architecture
Subject: Re: architectural photography -- tools & techniques?
Message-ID: <1993Nov10.102401.19162@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: 10 Nov 93 10:24:01 -0500
References: <CG2B80.455@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> <CG77GH.MKp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
<1993Nov9.175323.16570@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Organization: University of Northern Iowa
Lines: 41
Xref: news.cac.psu.edu rec.photo:18420 alt.architecture:689
In article <1993Nov9.175323.16570@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>,
dslee@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Daniel Soohyun Lee) writes:
> In article <CG77GH.MKp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> jake@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Jake Livni)
writes:
>>In article <CG2B80.455@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> yee@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Jonathan
Yee) writes:
> [advice requested for architectural photography deleted to save space]
>>> (iv) is a perpective-control (pc) lens also required equipment?
>>
>>for 35 mm and medium format, it can be very helpful. Olympus makes
>>the widest, a 24 mm PC for 35 mm format.
>
> I believe that Canon makes a line of PC lenses that also allows you to
> shift (change the plane of focus). They call it TS-E and have 3 focal
> lengths 24mm, 45mm and 90mm. Unfortunately they are quite a bit more
> than US$1000. Also they can't auto-focus but I guess that isn't
> necessary anyway (hey, where did that building go? I was going to
> take a picture of it. :-)
>
> [.sigs and stuff deleted]
At the risk of sounding like a snobbish photographer, the only way to get crisp
photos of the exteriors of buildings is to use a large format view camera with
all swings, shifts, and tilts. There are limits to what a PC lens can do, and
the difference in area between a 35mm and a 4x5 inch neg is huge. Part of the
reason that the magizine pictures are so sharp is that they don't have to
enlarge the image as much (ie. to print an 8X10 from a 4x5 requires a
magnification factor of 2x, whereas from a 35mm, it takes a magnification
factor of more than 50x.)
Of course, if you are going to be picky about sharpness, a decent camera setup
will run a _minimum_ of US$1500. This will basically buy the camera (I
recommend a Cambo Legend or any Horseman) and a lens (I personally prefer
Schneider, but they cost quite a bit more.) You will also want to get a good
light meter that can meter both ambient and flash, and preferably be able to
average both. Of course, a solid tripod is esential, and Bogen makes some good
ones. If you think that you will be ballancing light sources (ie. flash and
indoor lights) you should also consider a color meter, but these can be rented
for special occaisions.
Jon Williams
University of Northern Iowa
willia00@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Path:
psuvm!news.cac.psu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iasta
te.edu!cobra.uni.edu!williaj4212
From: williaj4212@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Newsgroups: rec.photo,alt.architecture
Subject: Re: architectural photography -- tools & techniques?
Message-ID: <1993Nov10.102401.19162@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: 10 Nov 93 10:24:01 -0500
References: <CG2B80.455@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> <CG77GH.MKp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
<1993Nov9.175323.16570@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Organization: University of Northern Iowa
Lines: 41
Xref: news.cac.psu.edu rec.photo:18420 alt.architecture:689
In article <1993Nov9.175323.16570@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>,
dslee@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Daniel Soohyun Lee) writes:
> In article <CG77GH.MKp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> jake@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Jake Livni)
writes:
>>In article <CG2B80.455@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> yee@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Jonathan
Yee) writes:
> [advice requested for architectural photography deleted to save space]
>>> (iv) is a perpective-control (pc) lens also required equipment?
>>
>>for 35 mm and medium format, it can be very helpful. Olympus makes
>>the widest, a 24 mm PC for 35 mm format.
>
> I believe that Canon makes a line of PC lenses that also allows you to
> shift (change the plane of focus). They call it TS-E and have 3 focal
> lengths 24mm, 45mm and 90mm. Unfortunately they are quite a bit more
> than US$1000. Also they can't auto-focus but I guess that isn't
> necessary anyway (hey, where did that building go? I was going to
> take a picture of it. :-)
>
> [.sigs and stuff deleted]
At the risk of sounding like a snobbish photographer, the only way to get crisp
photos of the exteriors of buildings is to use a large format view camera with
all swings, shifts, and tilts. There are limits to what a PC lens can do, and
the difference in area between a 35mm and a 4x5 inch neg is huge. Part of the
reason that the magizine pictures are so sharp is that they don't have to
enlarge the image as much (ie. to print an 8X10 from a 4x5 requires a
magnification factor of 2x, whereas from a 35mm, it takes a magnification
factor of more than 50x.)
Of course, if you are going to be picky about sharpness, a decent camera setup
will run a _minimum_ of US$1500. This will basically buy the camera (I
recommend a Cambo Legend or any Horseman) and a lens (I personally prefer
Schneider, but they cost quite a bit more.) You will also want to get a good
light meter that can meter both ambient and flash, and preferably be able to
average both. Of course, a solid tripod is esential, and Bogen makes some good
ones. If you think that you will be ballancing light sources (ie. flash and
indoor lights) you should also consider a color meter, but these can be rented
for special occaisions.
Jon Williams
University of Northern Iowa
willia00@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx